How We Raise Our puppies
How We raise our litters

Thanks for having an interest in how we do things here at Stoverly.
An interested buyer makes an educated decision.

The first thing we do is we get to know our dogs and their backgrounds. Since we do not breed
our dogs until they are two years old or more we get to know them and have plenty of time to
research their backgrounds. When we know what our strong and weak points are in each dog,
we can choose mates who compliment them in hopes of producing puppies of better quality
than their parents.

To start off with we are always handling our dogs. We are checking for signs of heat cycles or
problems. We document everything we find. By the time we are ready to breed our dogs we
have a good idea when to expect their heat cycles.

We witness each planned breeding that takes place. We record the dates and can calculate our
due dates to within a few days. Expecting mom’s are kept on a good healthy diet, they are well
exercised and kept mentally stimulated.  About 2 weeks before pups are due to be born we set
up our whelping area in the family room, this is where mom will stay until pups are weaned.
When we hit 1 week before pups are due we start to take the female’s temperature 2 or 3 times a
day. We record each temperature and the time it was taken. When we notice a certain drop in
temperature we know labor will start within 24 hours. Now we keep a close eye on the female.
Shortly we will notice a lot of signs that says labor has now begun. She will be breathing heavy,
she will start to dig and show signs of nesting. She will have to go out to potty often. At this
point I break out the tea and coffee because I’ll get very little sleep over the next 24-48 hours. I
will not leave the mom alone at this point. This stage often finds me on the floor with pillow and
blanket right next to the whelping box.

The next step is the arrival of the puppies. Once they start to arrive I mainly supervise. If I notice
a pup is having any problems, I take over right away. However if all seems well I let mom do her
job.  As the second puppy is arriving, I will remove the first puppy. I will photograph it, weigh it,
note its color, gender and any identifying marks it may have. I will place it in a separate box with
a heat lamp until mom is done delivering the current puppy. Then she can have it back until
she’s ready to deliver the next puppy. I will record all this information for each puppy.
Once we are finished delivering puppies. I will place the pups in the clean and heated box and
clean out the whelping area. I’ll put down fresh bedding and turn on the heat lamp, and then I’ll
put all the pups back in with their mom. Now I maybe able to catch a few hours of sleep
depending on the time of day or night it is.

Docking of tails (while it is still legal to do so) will occur by the time pups are 48 hours old, and
dewclaws are done at the same time.

When puppies are 24 hours old and I have had a few minutes to collect myself, I send out emails
to let everyone know puppies are here. Since lots of people have been waiting as long as I have,
a lot of people are as excited as I am.

For the first few weeks of the pups’ lives they go through what is known as early neurological
stimulation. This gives the brain a kick-start. We find this makes everything easier with the
puppies. They house train, crate train and learn everything just that much faster. We make sure
that the puppies have lots of visitors and are handled often. They go on several outings and are
exposed to as much as possible before going to their new homes.  Puppies are weighed daily
for the first 2 weeks and then weekly for the remainder of their stay.

When puppies reach about 2 weeks old and everyone is healthy and happy we allow puppy
buyers to come by and meet the puppies. We encourage the whole family to come out and get to
know the puppies and me. You can watch them grow and let me know who you’re drawn to
more than others.

At 2 weeks old we get our first dose of wormer. (strongid)

By 3-4 weeks puppies have started eating real food, it is their kibble soaked in boiling water to
make it the consistency of baby food and as they get older the water content goes down until
they are eating solid kibble.
When we start to introduce food to the puppies we also introduce the clicker. It hangs on the
fence of the whelping area and before I place food down, I click. This teaches puppies very early
that click = food.

At 3-4 weeks old we have started to introduce them to as many new things as possible. We give
them tons of toys, new sounds, other animals and lots of people. We also have the whelping
area divided in two, a sleeping and playing area, and a paper area for potty breaks. This helps
puppies to learn to leave the sleeping area to eliminate.

At 4 weeks old we get our second dose of wormer. (strongid)

By 5-6 weeks we can start to take them on outings as time and number of puppies allows. They
may go to the pet store, the grocery store, the hardware store, the video store etc, any place that
will allow puppies in my arms. I NEVER put a pup this small on the ground, as they are
susceptible to too many things. I also do not take them to places where other animals will have
been. (such as Petsmart) Contagious disease like Parvo can be spread very easily and can kill
puppies. So even though we do lots of socializing, we do it as safe a manner as possible. With
larger litters it is impossible to get everyone out on the same adventures so we try to pick and
choose the puppies that will benefit the most from each adventure we may be able to do. Some
litters the socializing will all be done at home with people, sounds and situations we can vary for
them.
At this time I also give the pups a lot of time free in the house. There is always paper around for
them to eliminate on and they start to seek the paper when they have to go.

At 6 weeks I start to crate train the puppies. They have crates in their whelping area to play in
during the day. I will place them in crates with a sibling to start as this adds comfort, after a few
days I will put each pup in the crate alone. I will crate them after a hard play session when I know
they are tired as this makes the adjustment easier.

At 6 weeks we get our third dose of wormer. (Strongid)

Between 7 and 8 weeks of age all puppies go in and get their eyes examined. Results are given
to buyers and at this time via email and if anyone comes down with a defect we will then narrow
down any one we may have been planning on keeping, or anyone who may have had hopes of
going into a show/breeding home. Puppies always travel in a crate so it is more crate training
and travel training.

At the 8 week worming we give our puppies 3-5 days of Panacur granuals. This is a stronger
wormer that will get anything the other wormer may have missed. It also kills an organism called
Giardia which puppies get a lot when playing outside and putting new things in their mouth and
licking up wet leaves, grass, puddles etc. For more information on Giardia follow this link
http://www.dog-health-guide.org/causesofgiardiaindogs.html

The same day as the eye exam the puppies go in to get their first set of vaccinations where the
vet will listen to the heart, check that the boys have both testicles descended and make sure
everyone is happy and healthy.

The day after the eye exam and vet check all of the puppies go through what we call a puppy
puzzle. This helps us to judge the puppies’ conformation and structure. At this time we make
our decision of who we are keeping or who is going to a show/breeding home and who is not.
Once we have made our decision then it’s time to place puppies with owners. We take into
consideration which color and gender you prefer. We take into consideration which pups you
were drawn to most. We will review your original application and your families’ needs and
activity level. Then we look at each puppy’s personality and eliminate the puppies we feel would
not fit well with your lifestyle.

Then we let you know which puppy is yours or which puppies you may choose from if a choice
is available.
In the event that we have a few pups that are very middle of the road and would do well just
about anywhere, we will allow people to choose puppies based on the order deposits were
received.

All puppies leave with a puppy pack, which may include most of the following:
Food, toys, treats, collar, blanket, leash, bowls, and contracts.

REMEMBER

Even if you specify a certain color and gender that you prefer. And even if I have that puppy
born. There is no guarantee that puppy will be offered to you.

  1. As breeder I get first pick
  2. If there is a pup owed back to a stud dog owner or to the breeder of the female they get
    second pick.
  3. Pups are placed in active homes first above pet homes regardless of the order of deposits
    received.
  4. Pups are placed based on their personality and activity level.
  5. Then if there is a choice of more than one puppy for you, I let you choose based on the
    order deposits were received. So get your deposits in early.

That’s the way it works here at Stoverly. That’s how our pups are born and raised. Feel free to
read our How It works page to see exactly how we place pups in new homes in case we did not
answer all of your questions here.

If we haven’t answered all of your questions, please feel free to contact us any time.

Thanks
Sue

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